
Nothing is more deflating than looking forward to an extraordinary meal only to find it’s ordinary. When I visit Hawaii I make a point of eating like a local: I lace up my walking shoes and go on a self-guided food crawl rather than spending every moment at the beach. On Oahu, a stop at the North Shore shrimp trucks is practically a rite of passage. Over the years I’ve found their reputation often sets expectations so high that the reality can feel underwhelming—shrimp drenched in melted butter and jarred garlic that has a noticeably different, less vibrant profile than fresh garlic. The contrast between jarred and fresh garlic is dramatic, and it’s worth the extra effort to use fresh when you can.
Recently, I spotted a seafood counter at Costco selling prawns by the pound. It’s a treat to buy exactly the amount you want. I asked if I could get a half pound of jumbo black tiger prawns and paid $6.50—an excellent value compared with a restaurant portion, which would likely cost three to four times as much.
As I planned how to prepare the prawns, I kept thinking about the garlic shrimp trucks and how to make a better version at home. I love salt-and-pepper prawns from my favorite Chinese restaurant, so I decided to combine that bold seasoning with the bright garlic-butter flavor of the Hawaiian classics.

To build flavor, start by dry-salting the prawns. I used red Hawaiian sea salt and massaged the shell-on prawns briefly—about 10 seconds—then let them rest. Leaving the shells on adds richness and protects the meat from overcooking or charring. After the short dry rest, add just enough water to cover the prawns and let them sit in the brine; this pulls seasoning into the meat and helps tenderize the prawns.
Drain and pat the prawns dry with paper towels, then dust them lightly with corn starch. The starch adds a subtle texture that helps the butter and seasonings cling to the prawns during cooking.
Heat coconut oil in a frying pan over medium heat and sear the prawns about one minute per side; season with freshly ground black pepper. At this point the shells will be vivid in color while the interior meat remains slightly underdone—this is intentional. Remove the prawns briefly to a plate, then add butter and freshly chopped garlic to the same pan. Swirl the garlic gently in the melting butter so it cooks slowly; the goal is to brown the garlic without burning it.
Return the prawns to the pan and cook for another 30 seconds per side while finishing with a touch of Hawaiian sea salt and more black pepper. If bits of garlic stick to the pan, splash in a teaspoon of dry sherry (or a splash of white wine) and scrape the fond loose with a wooden spoon—this helps lift those browned garlic pieces and adds depth to the sauce. Pour the garlic-butter mixture over the prawns and finish with a scattering of chopped cilantro.




The finished prawns are best eaten hot and hands-on: pop the whole shell into your mouth, savor the garlic-butter, salt, pepper, and cilantro against the shell, then peel it away and enjoy the tender meat inside. The result is a balanced dish where no single element overwhelms the others—salty, peppery, garlicky, and fragrant with cilantro.
Next time I head back to Hawaii I might pass on the garlic shrimp trucks and stick to shaved ice—at least until I find a truck that matches this homemade version. Enjoy!

- 1/2 pound jumbo prawns (about 12), shell-on, split and deveined
- 1 tablespoon red Hawaiian sea salt (Kosher salt works fine)
- 1 tablespoon corn starch
- 1 tablespoon coconut oil
- Fresh ground black pepper
- 1 1/2 tablespoons butter
- 6 large cloves fresh garlic, chopped
- Additional Hawaiian sea salt and black pepper to taste
- 1 teaspoon dry sherry or a splash of white wine
- 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro
- In a medium bowl, toss the prawns with the tablespoon of salt. Massage briefly (about 10 seconds) and let rest for 10 minutes.
- Add just enough water to cover the prawns and allow them to brine for 15 minutes.
- Strain and pat the prawns dry with paper towels. Do not rinse.
- Lightly sprinkle corn starch over both sides of the prawns.
- Heat a frying pan over medium heat and add the coconut oil.
- When the pan is hot, sear the prawns about 1 minute per side. Season with fresh black pepper.
- The shells should be vibrant and nearly cooked while the meat remains slightly underdone. Remove the prawns to a plate.
- Add the butter and chopped garlic to the pan. Swirl gently as the butter melts, taking care not to burn the garlic.
- Return the prawns to the pan and cook an additional 30 seconds per side, seasoning with a little Hawaiian sea salt and more black pepper.
- The garlic should be lightly browned and slightly crispy without being burnt.
- Transfer the prawns to a serving dish.
- Add the dry sherry to the pan and scrape any stuck garlic and browned bits free with a wooden spoon (about 20 seconds). Pour this garlic-butter sauce over the prawns.
- Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve immediately.